Atmega fusebit doctor (HVPP+HVSP) – fix the fusebits
3 May 2010
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Posted by manekinen
Atmega fusebit doctor, as name says it, device for repairing dead Atmega (and Attiny from v2.04) family AVRs by writing correct fusebits. Most common mistakes or problems are a wrong clock source (CKSEL fusebits), disabled SPI programming (SPIEN fuse) or disabled reset pin (RSTDISBL fuse). This simple and cheap circuit will fix you uC in a fraction of a second. If in first case we can help ourself with clock generator, then in 2nd and 3rd cases bring uC back to life is impossible with standard serial programmer. Most of people do not decide to build parallel programmer because its inconvenient and its cheaper and faster to buy new uC.
This circuit uses the parallel and serial high-voltage programming method. With those methods, we can talk to our “dead” chips which have reset or isp disabled:
HVPP = high voltage parallel programming.
HVSP = high voltage serial programming.
Supported chips list:
Code to this point supports 145 chips, but not all have been tested. Tested are lighted green. Report a problem – and i make a fix :)
1kB:
AT90s1200, Attiny11, Attiny12, Attiny13/A, Attiny15
2kB:
Attiny2313/A, Attiny24/A, Attiny26, Attiny261/A, Attiny28, AT90s2333, Attiny22, Attiny25, AT90s2313, AT90s2323, AT90s2343
4kB:
Atmega48/A, Atmega48P/PA, Attiny461/A, Attiny43U, Attiny4313, Attiny44/A, Attiny48, AT90s4433, AT90s4414, AT90s4434, Attiny45
8kB:
Atmega8515, Atmega8535, Atmega8/A, Atmega88/A, Atmega88P/PA, AT90pwm1, AT90pwm2, AT90pwm2B, AT90pwm3, AT90pwm3B, AT90pwm81, AT90usb82, Attiny84, Attiny85, Attiny861/A, Attiny87, Attiny88, AT90s8515, AT90s8535
16kB:
Atmega16/A, Atmega16U2, Atmega16U4, Atmega16M1, Atmega161, Atmega162, Atmega163, Atmega164A, Atmega164P/PA, Atmega165A/P/PA, Atmega168/A, Atmega168P/PA, Atmega169A/PA, Attiny167, AT90pwm216, AT90pwm316, AT90usb162
32kB:
Atmega32/A, Atmega32C1, Atmega323/A, Atmega32U2, Atmega32U4, Atmega32U6, Atmega32M1, Atmega324A, Atmega324P, Atmega324PA, Atmega325, Atmega3250, Atmega325A/PA, Atmega3250A/PA, Atmega328, Atmega328P, Atmega329, Atmega3290, Atmega329A/PA, Atmega3290A/PA, AT90can32
64kB:
Atmega64/A, Atmega64C1, Atmega64M1, Atmega649, Atmega6490, Atmega649A/P, Atmega6490A/P, Atmega640, Atmega644/A, Atmega644P/PA, Atmega645, Atmega645A/P, Atmega6450, Atmega6450A/P, AT90usb646, AT90usb647, AT90can64
128kB:
Atmega103, Atmega128/A, Atmega1280, Atmega1281, Atmega1284, Atmega1284P, AT90usb1286, AT90usb1287, AT90can128
256kB:
Atmega2560, Atmega2561
About:
Just put your dead mega in socket, press the START button, and enjoy your good-as-new processor. There are three slots on board, for most common AVR’s, pins compatible with: Atmega8, Atmega16, Attiny2313. There is also an extra goldpin connector with all signals so you can attach adapters:
“#1 adapter” as HVPP extension, for 20pin Attiny26 compatible and 40pin Atmega8515 compatible processors.
“HVSP adapter” for 8pin and 14pin HVSP processors.
Or make your own adapters for other types of processors, in trough-hole or surface-mounted, you can use the breadboard for this – just connect signals to correct pins. How? Check your AVR datasheet, go to “memory programming” and then “parallel programming” – check the signal names, all signals are described under the DIP40 slot. In doctor memory there is a lot of free space so project may be developed all the time. One sided PCB with 55mm x 92mm dimensions. On top side you need to solder several jumpers, or, make this PCB as double sided – choose yourself. Resistors from R7 to R23 may be in 100ohm to 10K, but i suggest from 470ohm to 1K.
ATTENTION! While mounting the DIP40 slot, you must to remove it pins from 29 to 37. These pins must not have electrical contact with inserted uC pins, traces runs there only to make the board smaller (onesided). Take a look at pic on the left, these you must remove from slot.
Usage:
The ALLOW ERASE jumper allows doctor to erase whole flash and eeprom memory, if it is open, doctor will newer erase memory but may not cure device if lockbits are enabled, so you choose. After insert dead uC and press the START button, doctor will initiate the parallel or serial high-voltage programming mode. This is chosen automatically, device will recognize HVSP adapter and start to work in HVSP mode. After that, doctor wait for high state at RDY/BSY line. Then, read device signature and check if it supports it. Next, memory erase is performed if user allows that. Then lockbits are checked, and if they not blocking device, doctor sets all fusebits to fabric, having regard to whether there are extended fusebits or not. Some of older AVR have only one byte of fuses – LOW – and this is also included. After fusebits are verified, the proper leds is flashed.
Leds explanation:
green on – patient successfully cured, fusebits repaired. If lockbits are enabled, just verify fusebits with factory ones – and if they ok – light up green.
red on – signature problem, can’t read, no device in socket, or no such signature in database.
– signature ok, fusebits are wrong. Lockbits enabled, chip erase permission required (read below).
– signature ok, no lockbits, but for some reason can’t write new fusebits.
Terminal:
Note that terminal is not needed, device works without pc, and all we want to know we get from leds.
You can find extra RS232 output, and connecting this to the terminal, sends all information about fixing process – see exemplary printscreens in gallery. All the info is send “on fly” via uart. Use proper converter to connect this with pc. If you have COM port for RS232, use MAX232 based converter (eg this). If you are using laptop, use the USB converter (like this or this).
Terminal settings:
baudrate: 4800
parity: none
databits: 8
stopbits: 1
handshake: none
Other:
Use one of the following microcontrollers as the doctor-chip: Atmega8, Atmega88, Atmega88P, Atmega168, Atmega168P, Atmega328, Atmega328P – and their newer/low-voltage “A” or “L” versions.
Use stabilized 12V supply voltage. Higher voltage can damage fixed chip!
Code was written based on high-voltage parallel and serial programming section of datasheet of suitable AVRs.
If you are searching for attiny family AVR’s fusebits fix device, then check my previous project, the Attiny fusebit doctor. Unfortunately, some bugs show off and this project is no longer updated since the “Atmega fusebit doctor” supports all the Attiny family AVRs. But, source code is attached for this project, and with avr datasheet, it will be easy to understand this programming mechanism.
Fusebits:
Internal 1MHz clock, and enabled EESAVE bit – see README file.
If you use a brand new chips as doctor, you don’t need to change anything – 1MHz clock is already set as default. EESAVE bit is optional. It disallows to erase the eeprom when firmware is actualized, eeprom is used to store the fixed chips counter which is send trough uart.
Send your own fuses and locks trough terminal, talk with chips with broken signature. If you connect terminal Tx pin to PCB Rx pin – manual mode will be enabled automatically. This requires Tx-terminal pin to be HIGH and OUTPUT when idle. It must pull up the 10K pulldown. If this condition is not met, doctor will work in normal – automatic mode.
HOWTO:
First, doctor will read signature. And if fail, it will ask to type signature manually.
Type two last bytes of signature in HEX (4 chars) and hit enter.
Then, doctor will try to read the chip depending on given signature.
When succeed, select an option:
1 – write fusebits – this will perform a fuse write cycle with fuse-values from buffer (default).
2 – modify fusebits – this will let you to type fuses manually, values in buffer will update. Type one byte in HEX (2 chars) and hit enter. Repeat for each byte (if exist).
3 – set lockbits – type new lock value in HEX (2 chars) and hit enter – do this with caution! Remember that unused bits are always 1! E.g. if want to enable LB1 and LB2, type FC (11111100)
4 – erase the chip – this will just erase the chip and locks, it require “allow erase” jumper for safety.
5 – end – exit programming and drop voltages, now you can safely remove the chip.
See how Attiny13 with broken signature was repaired.
See how the same chip was “broken” again.
Do not suggest LEDs when in manual mode – they just blinking randomly :)
ATTENTION – Firmware 2.1x NEED a pcb updated to version 2h!
Gallery:
Files:
DOWNLOAD – ARCHIVE of all previous updates. Firmwares + boards.
Changelog in README file. -SMD VERSION HERE-
No need to download this, all newest files are below.
DOWNLOAD – UPDATE #11, 30.04.2011:
Firmware ver.2.11 – fixes
Fusebits: see README file
Fixed bug when not writing the HIGH fusebyte (concerns all chips!)
“Just” a typo which i made during optimalisations for 2.10 firmware :)
DOWNLOAD – SMD Adapter:
Pads for 4 chips, compatible with: T2313, M8, M16, M128 – all has been tested.
Use strong paper clips to push chip to the pads.
Notifications about new updates – twitter.com/manekinen
FAQ – frequently asked Questions and Answers:
P: No sign of life, no leds are working.
O: Critical bugs on pcb, poorly programmed chip.
P: Red led is on.
O: Chip si not recognized. Make a voltage measurements. In idle, measure voltages on +12 RESET and +5 SUPPLY at female goldpin connector – you should get 0V or close to 0V on both. After the START button is pressed, you should get close to +12V and 5V for one second. If not, check transistors, if they are ok and if they are soldered ok.
Q: Red led is on.
A: Bugs on pcb, traces are packed densely and its very possible that you have invisible gap, shortcut, or dry joint. Check everything with multimeter, but PRECISELY.
Q: Red led is on.
A: Connect device to the terminal to get repair log. Press start to receive infos.
Q: Received “Init programming…” and nothing more – OR – received signature is “00 01 02″ or “FF FF FF”.
A: Chip is broken, or there still are bugs on pcb – look above.
Q: Received signature is “1E 90 00″, ” 1E 1E 1E”, or something familiar (meaningful data).
A: Chip is good, it initiates, look for shortcuts on DATA, BS, XA lines.
Q: Green led is on / “Verifying… – OK!” received, but chips don’t work with standard programmer.
A: You can be 100% sure that fuses are fixes, chip have hardware ISP damaged or it have some other damage.
Q: What are “Read Signature… FAIL!” and “Trying T2313 pinout… OK” doing in log?
A: Alle the 20pin chips need to be threated individually. First, device tries to read chip with standard schematic, and if it fails (“FAIL!”), then it tries to use schematic for 20pin T2313 compatible chips and then chip is read properly. This is normal behavior, this not a bug.
Q: What are “<[2J" trashes doing in log?
A: This is a terminal clear screen sequence, turn on the “VT-100″ emulation in terminal settings.
Q: I’m trying to type data into terminal but no chars appearing.
A:Make sure you set handshake to NONE in terminal settings.
Q: This still don’t help me, i tried everything but still have problem.
A: Ask in comments below :) Post firmware version and pcb version with which you try to work.
– Русский перевод – Евгений из GetChip Блог.
Categories: Digital, Microcontrollers, Workshop
Tags: avr, fusebit, HVPP, RSTDISBL, SPIEN
Leave a reply
Hi!
I want to build this Resetter my self but cannot find the BILLS OF MATERIAL. I mean the list of materials need for the circuit.
Thanks
Theres no BOM, you have to read them from the schematic.
I am nearing completion of the pcb and have a little doubt when the jumper is connected pcb manual mode and automatic mode when opened?
Thanks.
Good morning, I set up yesterday and tested the device before putting the chip recorded and the source of 12 volts was in direct high level checked the circuit and it was a wrong value of r2 was put 1k after testing the value of 60k ai stopped high level of the 12v and put ci and give level was high when pressed a button and there levels of 12v and 5v were high for a short time and there tested with two chips atmel 1284P today and it worked perfectly! Congratulations to the community by providing DY.
Good evening, now tested the card with the computer in terminal mode and manual mode and automatic tested worked perfectly with atmel 8 and tested before without terminal with atmega chip 1284P unlocked two chips that you can put it in testing.
Continue with these projects that help hobbyists much of the world.
I’m from Brazil and found you on the net that’s incredible.
Thank you.
Hello,
could I use a NP2222A or a 2N3904 (inverting the pin out) instead of the BC547 npn transistor?
thanks
Any bipolar transistor will be ok (100mA or more), as long as you mount BCE pins correctly.
thank you mr manekinen
i couldn’t find codes to program chip !!
sorry i found it !! ;)
MR ADMIN I HAVE A QUESTION
you connect BS2 (PD6) to “COM” bus & use it from “DATA” bus to SV2 !!
is it ok ? please take a look to schematic
Dear, manekinen!
Can you help me with the power supply that I can use with this board? I know, that it must be 12 Volts, but how many amps? Will be enough 12V/0.3-0.5A?
Thank you for your help in advance!
Best regards,
Bobby
300mA should do the job, but i never measured how many it takes. Just try it.
Wow, I was fast in your answer! :) Thank you very much!
Wow, YOU was fast in your answer! :) Thank you very much!
HI …
thank you mr manekinen. i built and used it. its reconstruct one of my dead mega 8 . I need to use pc & program to help . What program do you use and how i can get that ? please …
Everything is in the description. Just read it carefully.
hello,
Can you help me?
I get a problem about how to use fuse bit doctor, and I am confused how to use the firmware.
Can you explain to me in detail? but I had to send my questions to your email, please help me ..
Thank you for your help in advance!
Best regards,
judo
I do not understand what do you mean by “how to use the firmware”. You build the circuit and burn the firmware into the atmega8, and thats it. Usage – see description.
so I just burn the firmware into the ATmega8 and it’s ready to use?
how about the blue screen as in the picture (in the gallery) how can I show like that? whether it’s about a serial interface with a pc? and to use fusebit doctor if I have to connect to it with a pc?
I’m sorry I ask too much, I just know fusebit doctor and I want to build it.
Yes it is ready to use. PC terminal is only optional. Its also described above.
and if I want to send information about fixing process via uart and connect this with the Laptop, what kind of software should I use ? would you like to give me tutorial how to conect it with my Laptop ?
thank’s a lot manekinen..
and if I want to send information about fixing process via uart and connect this with the Laptop, what kind of software should I use ? would you like to give me tutorial how to conect it with my Laptop ?
thank’s a lot manekinen..
Hej, mam mały problem z odblokowaniem Atmegi88.
Logi:
MANUAL HVPP MODE
Init programming… DONE
Read signature… FF FF FF – FAIL!
Trying T2313 pinout..FF FF FF – FAIL!
Type the signature: 1E930A
Searching chip… no names in 8kB ver
Read fusebits… L:FF H:FF E:FF
Should be… L:62 H:DF E:F9
Lockbits… DISABLED (FF)
What to do?…
1 – write fusebits
2 – modify fusebits
3 – set lockbits
4 – chip erase
5 – end
Writing 62 DF F9… DONE
Verifying… L:FF H:FF E:FF- FAIL!
Please try again…
Oprócz tego niemiłosiernie grzeje mi się stabilizator. Pobór prądu to prawie 0.22A. Aż tyle ma być? Nie znalazłem nigdzie żadnego zwarcia.
Jakaś rada!?
Udało mi się zdobyć działającą atmege8 i wynika z logów że fuse doctor działa poprawnie. Czyli uC jest całkowicie uwalony?
Na to wygląda. W ogóle nie inicjuje trybu programowania.
Thanks for this device! I often use it, and it helps me so many times…
I created an SMD version of PCB (without sockets for DIP, but you can use adapters) and I want to share it with you (for free, of course). In archive I included a README file, photos of my board and two versions of PCB (with Power-Jack connector and with terminal connector as at the original board).
WARNING: Some SMD components heats so much, so try to do all your tasks as fast as possible (about 3 minutes to avoid fire, I didn’t try :) ). But the device is useable, I had no problems.
Link: http://depositfiles.com/files/rwszprks2
P.S. Remember that the position of 78L05 on the photo is not right! (It was my mistake at first revision of the PCB :) )
Have fun!
Hello.
Why it is heating up? I can publish it in the download section above, but not when it is getting hot – something is wrong.
Which element is heating? If it is T3, try to increase R25 for example up to 470 ohms.
78L05 also shouldn’t heat up. Measure the power consumption and try to fix it. Also, these transistors are working only up to 1 second after button is pressed, so they shouldn’t be hot.
Witam czy jeżeli wystarczy podłączyć rezonator lub rc , ten układ mi pomoże odblokować atmege32 ?
hi,I urgently need to know ATtiny13A whether it can be healed, I tried green lantern is lit, it looks normal, but actually it has not been healed.
I hope you can help me, I hope you all the best, thank you!
Of course it can, its on the list, as tested. It can has broken ISP. RS232 output can tell you more.
I first of all, It saved me quite some chips :-))
I have a question. When i am connected with Terminal and insert
a chip it doesn’t tell me the type ex. Atmega8 or tiny2313.
But exept of this it erases the chip quit fine.
Is there a list of the chip’s???
8kB firmware wont tell you the chips names. You’ll get them only with 16kB firmware for atmega168 or 328 doctor chips.
świetny projekt :) Czy do komunikacji z komputerem można użyc taniego konwertera USB->RS232 na allegro można takie coś znaleść za 6zł więc nie opłacało by sie budowac :) pozdrawiam
Jeśli konwerter będzie spełniał warunki (prędkość i poziomy napięć) to czemu nie.
Gratuluję udanego projektu, wykonałem i odratowałem kilka sztuk ATMEL-i.
Pozdrawiam.
hi !?
any body there ?
i just say thanks a lot. thank you for advice
Hi friends.
I have a trouble with my arduino board. The board is arduino atmega 2560. I do not like Arduino IDE so I use Avr studio for programming and I used another programmer for downloading to the chip but I had a fault with fuse bits. Now microcontroller only wokrs with external oscilator (not work with crystal), I can not program it, can not download into the chip also. I did do your Atmega fusebit doctor and connected it to my arduino board but I did not work out the problem. Befor press restart button I did not see any signal on the red and green LED, after press restart button I saw the green LED fast flashing, and the red LED also flashes fast. After that both of them are off.
Could you what is the problem and if you can please, tell me the way to solve it!
Thank you.
I don’t know more than you, you have to check what doctor is sending trough uart output.
Witam! mam płytkę z dnia 03.03.2010-01.07.2010 i mam pytanie, jaki najnowszy soft moge wgrać do tej wersji?
P.S. w mojej wersji jest problem z atmega 162
Nie wiem jaka to płytka bo data nic mi nie mówi, na płytce powinna być napisana jej wersja. Soft 2.10 i wyższe wymagają płytki 2h. Wcześniejsze softy pasują do wcześniejszych płytek. Proponuję jednak wprowadzić zmiany na płytce bo nie są one wielkie a usprawniają urządzenie, starsze płytki potrafią robić spore problemy z niektórymi prockami.
Jest to płytka z elektrody, po włożeniu atmegi 162 i przyciśnięciu start nie zapala się żadna dioda, na atmedze 8 i 32 wszystko działa jak powinno
Wielkie dzięki! :D
Złożyłem schemacik na płytce stykowej i naprawiłem sobie dwie Atmegi 8 :)
Dla tych, którym nie działa:
Sprawdźcie sobie kilka razy styki. Mi się udało znaleźć błąd dopiero za czwartym razem. U mnie migała ciągle czerwona dioda, ale po wyeliminowaniu błędów świeci się zielona i komputer wykrywa mikrokontrolery :)
No to teraz proponuję wykonać płytkę drukowaną i zmontować na stałe, jeszcze nie raz się przyda ;)
This is amazing it realy works, thank you. I have a question why some components are missing from final assembled board but they are exist in schematics?
Because you are watching at pictures with PCB in first version and at schematic in latest version. This project had something about eleven updates :)
Witam,
czy testowałeś swój układ w wersji smd ? ja go zrobiłem i nie chcę mi działać, sprawdzałem płytkę kilka razy, napięcia 5v i 12v pojawiają się kiedy trzeba, ale niestety nie działa. Wymieniłem procka, dołożyłem ftdi żeby zobaczyć co się dzieje, testowałem na kilku prockach (atmega168,8, attiny13) na wszystkich jest to samo, otrzymuję coś takiego
Init programming… DONE
Read signature… FF FF FF – FAIL!
Trying T2313 pinout..FF FF FF – FAIL!
chociaż nie zawsze jest to FF.
już nie wiem co może być źle
ok, widzę że testowałeś, u mnie nie chcę to za cholerę działać, czyżby wszystkie procki były uwalone ?
Chodzi o przystawkę smd? Była testowana i nie tylko przeze mnie. Być może za słabo dociskasz układy lub pady nie są dokładnie (równo) pocynowane.
nie, nie przystawkę, układ główny, chyba zrobię go jeszcze raz ale tym razem na elementach przewlekanych bo już nie wiem co może być źle. Mam jeszcze jedno pytanie, bo chcę podpiąć pod logic analyzer wszystkie linie do odblokowania attiny13, czy możesz mi powiedzieć jakie sygnały są wysyłane na poszczególnych liniach, mógłbym sprawdzić czy u mnie są one prawidłowe.
Wersja SMD nie jest mojego autorstwa i nawet jej nie wykonywałem żeby ją sprawdzić – ludzie piszą że jest ok. Nie była też aktualizowana od jakiegoś czasu.
Czy w przypadku attiny13 układ startuje w trybie HVSP?
Co do sygnałów, jest ich dużo, i po prostu nie da się tego opisać tekstem :) Zobacz projekt “attiny fusebit doctor” jest to poprzednia wersja tego układu tylko z interfejsem HVSP, opublikowałem tam źródła kodu, jeśli coś z niego zrozumiesz to będziesz w stanie porównać to do tego co zobaczysz na analizatorze.
Witam czy da się tym odblokować ISP w procesorku AT89S2051.
Układów AT89 doctor w ogóle nie obsługuje, co prawda mają one jakieś programowanie równoległe ale na pewno nie jest to zgodne z HVPP – teraz pobieżnie przejrzałem notę.
Witam, rozważam budowę w/w układu i chciałbym się doradzić czy jest sens. Uszkodziły mi się (jeszcze nie wiem od czego i jak) dwa uP Atmegi8 niezależnie czy programuję je usbasp czy stk500(klon SIBIT’a) zwraca mi ten sam błąd. Fusebity czyta i zmienia bez błędy ale przy programowaniu Flash jest błąd weryfikacji(programowanie wolne).
Błąd weryfikacji występuje pod różnymi losowymi adresami? Jeśli tak to tasiemka łącząca jest za długa (max 15cm), zasilanie kiepskiej jakości, nie zblokowane kondensatorkami 100nF. Może jakieś zimne luty, trzeba dokładnie przedzwonić miernikiem połączenia. Jeśli błąd występuje przy obydwu programatorach to usterek należy szukać na płytce z układem docelowym. Sama tasiemka może też być źle zaciśnięta we wtyczce.
Ten układ w tym przypadku nie pomoże bo układy są sprawne. No, chyba że błąd występuje zawsze pod tym samym adresem, to można domniemywać że układy są uszkodzone, ale to jak jeden na milion że uszkodziły by się obydwa w taki sam sposób.
Na płytce już wcześniej programowałem kilkanaście razy procesor i było zawsze ok. Procesor nie był nowy gdy odmówił posłuszeństwa pomyślałem że porostu padł z zbyt dużej ilości programowania i kupiłem nowy, który po zaprogramowaniu około 4 razy zaczął się zachowywać jak stary. nic na zasilaniu i taśmie czy układzie się nie zmieniło w międzyczasie. Tak różne adresy błędu.
Genialny projekt.Stworzyłem układ na płytce uniwersalnej.Trochę się zmartwiłem gdy układ bez żadnego pacjenta nie pracował poprawnie.To jest przestroga dla takich amatorów jak ja.Chciałem po prostu sprawdzić doktora (Atmega8) czy wyświetli czerwoną diodę (nie rozpoznał układu). Niestety nie zrobił tego.Dopiero po podłączeniu Atmegi 162 zaczął działać poprawnie.Myślę ,że kolega Manekinen powinien zacząć współpracę z Atmelem. Życzę powodzenia.
Hi, In my shop they have only ATMega8A and not ATMega8. Is it problem? Or can I use 8A without problems?
Thank you.
Yes it is compatible.
How do I program the Atmega8 wiwth the HEX file?
I have both an Arduino and a cheap Chinese clone of a USBasp. Can I use either one of these to program the Atmega8 ? If so, how do I connect the Atmega8 to the breadboard to flash it? Thanks.
Mate, you have to use ISP connector to do this, there are tons of info around the web on how to do this :)
Dear, I fix atmega48 fine. but i have one atmega168-20pu the Reset disabled, but fuse doctor only show this:
*****************************
AUTOMATIC HVSP MODE
Init programming… DONE
Read signature… 00 00 00 – FAIL!
No chip in socket or chip does not responding
Please try again…
*****************************
I try disabled reset pin with new and good atmega168-20pu, and show same.
what can do?
Men, i do one test with attiny2313, fc lock fix, but i disabled reset fuse also, same problem. I make rs232 to see, manual mode:
MANUAL HVSP MODE
Init programming… DONE
Read signature… 36 36 36 – FAIL!
Type the signature: 1E910A
Searching chip… no names in 8kB ver
Read fusebits… L:36 H:3F E:37
Should be… L:64 H:DF E:FF
Lockbits… ENABLED (3E)
*******************************************
*Freeze…, after put a finger on BS1 pin:*
*******************************************
Chip erase… DONE
What to do?…
1 – write fusebits
2 – modify fusebits
3 – set lockbits
4 – chip erase
5 – end
*******************************************
*Freeze again.., after put finger BS1:
*******************************************
Writing 64 DF FF… DONE
Verifying… L:FF H:00 E:FE- FAIL!
Please try again…
*I dont know what can be, may you help
Hello,
Atmega 48 and 168 are the same chip, the second one only have more memory, so both should work fine with doctor. And both were tested with it.
Attiny2313 also was tested.
When it’s freezing, it waits for READY pin to go high, your finger is giving a positive charge there, but it should depend on real RDY pin so it is possible that you also have break there.
Check your board twice for shorts or breaks in circuit, they are tricky to find.
Cheers.
You are right! I remount and work fine now.
Its a very useful project. Cheers!
Hi manekinen,
I built this to repair one Atmega328 that got wrong fuses because of some usbasp complications.
I built it and it worked the first time, so I was able to repair my 328p successfully. Thanks for that.
Some strange problems happened afterwards:
1. I put a atmega8 that was good, but just for a test. Let GREEN was blinking. Looking over serial connection, I saw the following: http://i45.tinypic.com/2hqrvr4.png
The chip became unreadable and it was working before via ISP, etc. Unable to fix it I tried to raise the voltage, from 12V to 18V, but that broke the chip permanently: the RED led turned on instead of the blinking green.
2. I tried with a working atmega168. It worked well – settings set back to default . Nice constant green led light.
3. I tried with another 328p . Worked good.
4. I tried with an Attiny2313 . It worked, but the Serial debugger showed some weird data:
http://i47.tinypic.com/iwq5hc.png
But this worked too.
5. I tried a brand new atmega8 . The green light was blinking. I then connected it via ISP and was able to use it correctly. Putting it back to Fusedoctor, showed blinking green light again. Why?
I connected the serial debugger. It showed everything was normal: http://i47.tinypic.com/15ezujs.png
I disconnected the serial/uart debugger, pressed the START button, but the green light was blinking again
6. Inspecting the PCB, I found an improper soldering at one of the 1K resistors. The circuit was interrupted there. Strange that atmega168 , attiny2313 and the atmega328p (the reason I built your tool) where all working. So I soldered the resistor correctly, BUT:
NOW NONE OF THE LEDS TURN ON. The debugger now only shows:
http://i48.tinypic.com/3466elu.png
And stops there . No leds turn on regardless of what I put in the sockets.
I hope this wasn’t a total waste of time, and there is something I can do to make it work as expected. What could be the cause of all this?
My only change to your original schematic was using 2x BC327 instead of BC557. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi!
At first you MUST verify carefully that PCB is perfectly “error free”. I’ve had ONE error – simple broken track and my console screen was like yours.
Init programming…
and nothing more :/
Now my device works OK.
Thanks to Manekinen
it’s work for ATmega8..
but how bout ATmega8A..i’ve tried but no working.
how bout atmega8A…i’ve tried it’s no work
help please
Hallo Manekinen,
i look for print-layout for fuse doctor.
Is any chance? No problem PayPal or $/Eu pay.
Thanks for any information.
Stan, Brno, CZ
Ahoj Manekinko.
Ten doktor absolutně nefunguje. Dělá si to co chce, jen ne to co by měl. Při osazení jakoukoliv atmegou, po stisku tlačítka červená led zhasne a pak se už nic neděje. Testováno na mega8-16, mega32, Attiny2313 a 4313. Ani při jednom obvodu to nefunguje. Zbytečně zničený kuprextit, součástky a výsledek velká nula. :-( :-(
Hi, great project & thank you for releasing it. I have just built mine & worked like a charm.
I am interesting in using Bascom with Atmel chips, would it be possible to see the source code for the Doctor ATMega8 chip?
Thanks again
Cześć!
Dzięki! Bardzo fajne urządzonko. Zmontowałem jako wprawkę przed poważniejszymi projektami. Miałem mały problem z brakiem 12V na układach jednak szybko znalazłem przerwaną z jakiegoś powodu ścieżkę. Hula jak trzeba. Twoje uwagi odnośnie błędów w trakcie uruchamiania są bardzo pożyteczne. Zwłaszcza jedna: sprawdzić DOKŁADNIE płytkę na ciągłość połączeń i brak zwarć.
Pozdrawiam
red led is ON …
when push start button >>> red led OFF , wait few seconds ,green led flashing , and red led return ON …
AND chip still not repaired
can any one help please :)
Hi there,
Are there ready-made pcb’s (factory-made) for this project available?
At dangerous-prototypes there are all out of stock and don’t sell/have them anymore.
Please eply?
Regards,
Harm
Hello
How i can connect my atmega169P to this?
Hi Manekinen
I just wondered if you could help me with the correct fuses to burn your firmware on a 328P-PU for the Fuse Doctor chip, I am using AVRDUDESS as it supports the 328P and Arduino as ISP out of the box.
It previously had an Arduino bootloader on it.
What would the fuses be for the Low/High/Ext and Lock Bits ?
Its all very confusing :)
Thanks
Rupert
Hi. Fuses are described in the readme file in the attachment.
For M328: L:0×62 H:0xD1 E:0xFF
And of course use proper firmware for this chip.
hello Manekinen
i am going out right now to buy the components for this circuit
but can you please tell me the difference between connecting the dead Atmega8 in the dip socket within the board and connecting it through the adapter ??
thanks in advance man
Hm? Theres no adapter for mega8.
so this means that for example for Atmega8 & Atmega32 & Atmega16 i need no adapters to revive them ???
Nope, just put them into the main board. There are 3 sockets for most popular AVRs :)